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15-May-2020 12:48

This was the When you flip the freewheel body upside down after installing it loosely on a wheel, you hope that you can get the string, rubber band, pawls and bearings to all end up in their rightful positions while maneuvering the cog body into the bearings.

I tried this as a “dry run” – sans bearings – a few times on the Maillard freewheel that I had disassembled, and was never able to get the string to pull the rubber band out, and this was without having any bearings to worry about.

Some vintage bicycles feature chainstays with integrated braze-ons or dropouts for Simplex, Cyclo, Huret and other rear derailleurs.

Plain dropouts require a “claw” attachment for the rear derailleur or a braze-on or clamp for the chain stay.

I was having trouble getting the freewheel cogs seated over the freewheel body, after cleaning and reinstalling the lower set of bearings at the base of the freewheel body.

When I left off from my last post, I was midway in the process of overhauling an early 80’s Shimano freewheel.While described as being in “great condition” by the seller, I found that this Suntour freewheel was totally dry and did not spin freely. As you can see from the above photo, the cover plate is easily accessible, with normal sized holes which my Park pin spanner fit perfectly.As I was removing the cover plate, once the body was off the wheel, I had a small mishap when I accidentally bumped the body, and the bearings went flying around my shop.And, the shape and style of the dropout are important as well: horizontal dropouts allow for wheel adjustment fore and aft, whereas vertical dropouts make rear wheel removal easier.

Eyelets on the dropouts mean integrated fender and rack mounts, a definite plus.Rear dropouts determine what derailleur options are available for a given frame.